A Paradise called Kashmir

Sunday, April 03, 2016

Having seen so much of Himalayas already, from Ladakh to Sikkim, I thought I was prepared, but I wasn’t by any means for what Kashmir had to offer. I used to wonder, how Kashmir was conferred the title of “Heaven on Earth”? I wondered if they had seen rest of the Himalayas, let alone rest of the world to make such tall claims. Then I found my answer.

Alpine scenery of Kashmir

Little do I know what paradise looks like, but if it’s not Kashmir, then I do not know what is. The minute we set out on the familiar highway to Sonmarg, glimpses of snow capped peaks and green meadows suggestive of what may be in store for us over the next few days got me terribly excited. The idea was to trek through the alpine meadows into the lap of heavenly lakes, tucked deep inside the wilderness where few have gone before, from Sonmarg to Narnag – what’s now famous as the Kashmir Great Lakes trek.

On the first evening, our campsite was on a small tableland overlooking the valley by the side of the river and the sparkling settlement of Sonmarg. When the sun finally went down late in the evening, considering the days were longest in June, I knew it was time! One of the reasons I love camping in the wilderness is because of the million stars and the delightful milkyway stretching across the mysterious night sky. Tonight we had it all, clear skies, dazzling stars and a splendid galaxy. Every shooting star I spotted brought forth a sense of calm and a rising sense of anticipation! For I was here, in Kashmir!

Star-studded sky in the high altitudes of Kashmir

Ethereal views, typical of Kashmir

The next morning was as glorious as it could get. The sunlight slowly traced the mountain slope as we raced to meet the light half way through. The freshness of the air almost felt alien, but not for long. Thajwas glacier was behind us as we hiked through the green meadows to reach the silver birch trees at the top of the mountain. Here was a shepherd village called Shekdur, where huts had no doors and the trees were sparkling silver in the sunlight. During the colder months, the shepherds would return and take shelter here. Now in the summers, the sheep are grazing at higher grounds.

Beyond this settlement opens a fairy tale like meadows surrounded by snow capped peaks with horses grazing in its verdant pastures as the stream cuts across at its whimsy. A leisurely walk came to end when a full grown Himalayan dog decided to defend its territory. Slowly we went past the meadows, the horses and the dog to descend into the next valley. Later when we reached our campsite for the day, amidst snow and rock, I came to know that one of our horses had died en route. They told me it was a brown and white pony, I am sure it would’ve been a beautiful animal.

Horse grazing in the green pastures around Songmarg

While each horse can cost anywhere from above fifty thousand rupees, they are a very important part of the locals’ livelihood. They carry load, provide them transport and help run their business. The horses are treated dearly and it shows. The animals looked majestic. The person who lost his horse was called Mansoor and I was surprised to find that the dashing smile never left his face despite his great loss. He seemed to accept fate as it was, a worthy trait I found many a times in the men of the mountains.

Next day, we waded through a lot of snow with ample support from the locals to get us across the snow ridden Nichnai Pass into the next valley. It was a very long and tiring hike before we reached the campsite by the side of an allutring half-frozen lake called Vishnusar. Hearing the gentle song of flowing water, seeing the looming clouds over the dark mountains as the sunshine escaped through the gaps, all fatigue was comfortably forgotten. Tariq, a young 15 year old boy from the nearby village was with us on the trek. His spirit was contagious. He would never sit still, always up for another task, always with a shy smile, always willing to help more. From what I heard through his cousins, he leads a tough life. As night fell, he brought us dinner. Of course he was still smiling even as it rained! Turns out, life is only as cruel as we make it to be.

A Kashmiri lady in her makeshift tent next to the stream

The next day, the mountains made their point clear that nature has the final say in the wilderness. We had to return back from Vishnusar as the snow hadn’t melted on a critical crossing yet. We spent the day walking along the frozen lake instead. Lurking around the corners of the glacial lake and wondering in silent contemplation, a thought was constantly ringing in my head – this is life! Being able to sit by the pristine lake, watching the blue sky reflect in the calm waters, tracing the clear reflection of the mountains and enjoying a cool breeze with a brilliant sun shining down on us. There was a dash of pink and yellow and a whole lot of green everywhere around us. This surely was the good life.

Half frozen Vishnusar Lake

Later, back at the campsite, we met a family of three, residing in a makeshift home by the river. I was surprised to know that these crystal clear streams and the enchanting glacial lakes here were thriving with trout. This family takes care of checking the permits before one can go fishing in these waters. We tasted the delicious Kashmiri Kahwa, a specialty spiced tea while the family told us we were one of the first batch of Indians they had seen in a long time(this happened 5 years ago and is obviously not the case anymore). I was surprised and also kind of embarrassed at the fact that there have been so many foreigners trekking on this route since years and not one of us(Indians).

Kashmiri Kahwa, a kind of flavorful Kashmiri green tea

Over the next two days we retraced the same route we had come, from the snow laden pass, through the valley, along the silver birches, into the pine forest and out to the last campsite. On the last day, the group of us collected a decent amount to tip the locals who helped us immensely. The cheerful locals sang beautiful songs that none of us understood. We handed over the money to them over campfire.

Next morning as we prepared to leave from the trek, a little bird told us the entire tip amount collected was happily given to Mansoor, the guy who lost his pony earlier! Bewitched by Kashmir’s immense beauty and its peoples’ incredible generosity of spirit, I was embarrased of my ignorance — of a paradise I didn’t know existed.

A paradise called Kashmir.

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  1. Kashmir is full of such hidden beauty it seems. I can comletely understand how it would have felt to return back from Vishnusar.

    I went on this trek in August '13, which was supposedly a good season but this one also ended with a similar fate. Our group had reached Vishnusar as per the schedule, but then it started raining which kept on raining for three consecutive days. The next day early morning we were happy to find a relatively clear weather and started in the direction of Gadsar pass. But one hour on the trek and it started raining again. It had made the path very slippery and the pass had become dangerous to cross, so we took a call to return back. We retraced the full 20-25km on the same day.

    There are beautiful memories still perched in my mind from the trek. I wish to visit this region sometime again and complete this trek.

    1. Oh, so there's really no good time to be on this trek then! Looks like weather gods only have the final say. ;) Can't wait to get back to Kashmir already, such a beautiful place.

  2. Replies
    1. Quite a testament to Kashmir's beauty, that I fell in love with it despite foul weather and a ruined trek, right? ;)

  3. So beautifully written Neelima!

    1. Thanks Chaitali, for always reading my posts and leaving a comment! :)

  4. Thanks Neelima,

    I am a regular reader of your blog.Also i shared your new blogs based on Indian destination to my closed friends.They also like your post.

  5. The story inspires lots of people to visit Kashmir once in their lifetimes, including me. Waiting for the trek to experience all those what you have written in your blog.

    Keep posting inspiring stories.

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